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Monday, December 12, 2011
Cuevas de las Manos will have to wait.  In keeping with my proud tradition of being involved in motor vehicle accidents while traveling, today I was involved in a rollover on a gravel road en route to Cuevas de las Manos.  Aside from the tremendous expense and guilty feelings involved, I’d say it was more fun than the average carnival ride, although it only flipped once.  I’m sure I wouldn’t feel the same if I had been driving.

The distinguished Argentine gentleman arrived on the scene soon after the accident and drove Livia to the Park to try to get help.  Among the numerous other people who stopped was a shuttle driver in route to the park who quickly returned with a group of workers he found on the road who were employees of some equivalent of the Highway and Transportation Department.  These are the men we should be hiring to respond to roadside assistance calls in the U.S.  They pulled the vehicle from the side of the hill where it came to rest, repaired all four tires, repaired the damaged front quarter-panel enough to keep the hood closed, and clamped a leaking break line (leaving us three working breaks to get to the next town).  For my part, I helped to tape up the fractured windshield and took a few photos.

This definitely altered our plans for the voyage home.  We’re managed to drive to Perito Moreno (the town, not the glacier) with no difficulties, but the car is going to have to remain here until someone from the insurance company can pick it up.  We’ll be flying back to Brazil instead of driving.  We also must have hit a utility pole, because half of the town’s electricity was out upon our arrival.

At least we managed to have another decently flavored meal in Argentina.











Never let someone in a poor, small, international town know that you’re a foreign tourist before you pay for accommodations.  Livia’s Spanish was good enough to get a decent price on a room.  Her English translation to me was good enough to have the price raised by 40 pesos.  Having no options, we complied with the price gouging.  This is actually fairly common practice in Argentina, although most places actually post the price differential.  Even in national parks, there are different prices posted for national citizens, Latin American residents, and visitors from other continents.  

The hotel prepared a full dinner (for yet another 40 pesos each) that came very professionally served in courses, and was one of the few truly wonderful meals I’ve had since crossing the Argentine border.  We broke bread with a French girl and a Canadian girl who were traveling together, as well as an older gentleman from Buenos Aires.  He was one of those distinguished types who was quiet in tone, but could hold amazing conversation.  Although he didn’t brag, he gives the impression that he is rather affluent, as his stories about sailing great distances would attest to.  The two girls said they had met each other in Viet Nam and became friends.  I asked if there was a war story involved, but I think my joke fell flat. 

Tomorrow we are going to see Cuevas de las Manos, which I’m pretty excited about.
Thursday, December 1, 2011


It’s 0330. Do you know where your children are? This one is about to go to bed. I’m at a nice, yet noisy hostel in El Chalten. They actually have a full-service kitchen and breakfast options that include more than bread. I decided to forego the trekking on Fitz Roy in lieu of attempting to do a homework assignment, which I just finished. I spent a lot of time talking to a Scotsman who lives in Ecuador instead of doing homework, but it was worth it. While we were talking, some Israelis asked us to move off of the (West Bank of the) couch so they could have a place to sit. I let the Scotsman deal with them. There is absolutely nothing to blog about today.

















At least I got to finish my breakfast before it was taken away this morning.


EDIT:

Speaking of smelling like gas...   We had to fill up five containers of fuel based on the rumors we heard of there being no nafta available in the next several towns.  Our windows were definitely opened, and everyone had a nice little nap.


Speaking of no bread, my breakfast was taken off of the table by the owner of the hostel while I was still eating this morning. I sincerely believe that it was secondary to the language barrier instead of meanness. However, that’s just one more thing to add to my bad review. I think she was afraid that we would try to leave without paying because we were unhappy with her, because when we got back to the hostel tonight the front desk clerk insisted that we pay the bill before we were allowed to return to our room.

Glaciar Perito Moreno is one of the few advancing glaciers in the world. Somehow, it feels wrong to be walking on what is already supposed to be threatened by my actions thousands of miles away. The trekking wasn’t nearly as difficult nor as cold as I expected.













I’m amazed at how little Argentine music we’ve heard on this trip. It’s mostly American with some British thrown in occasionally. We were lucky enough to have one of the guides play an original song for us after the climb, but we had to specifically request that he sing in Spanish.






I spent the afternoon zip lining down a mountain, followed by some great Argentine barbecue with some new 
friends.









The most interesting thing I saw today was the old rusted out car resting on its side at the bottom of the Cliff. Hopefully it was just the scene of an action movie, although I did have flashbacks to Toonces the Driving Cat.


  

















Apparently, El Calafate runs out of money every weekend. We had heard earlier in the week from travelers heading in the opposite direction that there was no money in any of the ATMs on Sunday. That has proven to be mostly true today as well. We talked to people who said they tried every bank in town with no luck. Fortunately, I met a woman after returning to our hostel who said she found one bank that still had money 45 minutes prior. Tomorrow is a holiday, so we flew to the bank, which had quite a few people waiting. Luckily, we were in time, as this hostel only accepts cash. We spent most of the day wandering around town, making reservations for excursions tomorrow and buying food.

 Our hostel is clean, but I have some serious complaints. The woman who runs it insists that both her computers used for internet and the WiFi used by lodgers with laptops be shut down at midnight. We didn’t return to the hostel until very late and were not notified about this until midnight. We were also told that we weren’t allowed to stay in the lobby after midnight and must go to our rooms. I felt like a child being sent to bed without any internet bread. I am going to be posting negative reviews for this place on HostelWorld.com. She should be running a boarding school instead of a lodge.





















Today we explored the Torres del Paine national park. We were encouraged to go view the “enormous” waterfall, which ended up looking a bit like a runny nose after having seen the falls at Foz do Iguaçu. The trekking was nice though, and the mountains did not disappoint. Once again, rain on the journey and sunshine for the return. I’m not sure that I’ll ever dry out.


 



















There was a caravan of RVs that were on a six-month journey that took them from the southern tip of South America to the northernmost part of Alaska. Some of them seem to take similar journeys every year. Some people marvel at how I’m able to take off work for six weeks, but I have encountered many people taking months or even over a year to travel here. Clearly, our investment portfolios do not closely resemble one another.





















I also saw my first glacier an impressive glacier, albeit from a distance… not to be confused with the iceberg in the foreground.




















We’re staying in a roadside motel that’s intended for truckers in an Argentinean town deceptively called Esperanza. Again, the concern for women is voiced. We elected not to drive into El Calafate so late on a Saturday night without a reservation, so it will be a short drive tomorrow. I feel fortunate that we’re the only ones staying in a room with six bunks. I feel that if someone were above me, the bed would collapse. The associated restaurant appears better, as it caters to tour busses as well as truck drivers.





Today we departed Ushuaia for Puerto Natales, Chile.  The wind was legendary today.  Before boarding the ferry to depart Tierra del Fuego, we were told there was a chance it could be cancelled due to high winds.  This did not happen, and while it seemed to be an unexpectedly smooth voyage, we were delayed approximately an hour because the wind kept pushing the stern of the craft causing the bow to pull away from the landing.  Wind conditions did not improve as we traveled toward our destination via car, and we were cautioned to drive slow and in the middle of the road when possible.  There were reports several vehicles that had been blown over or off the highway in the last couple of days.  Finally, I OWNED the foosball table while we stopped for gas and coffee.

Our lodging for the night was a simple bed and breakfast whose owner, and older lady, was concerned about the seemliness of a woman traveling with and staying in a room with three other men.  This is definitely a recurring theme.  The place was comfortable, but smelled like gas.  I lost internet access because someone unplugged the router to charge some batteries.  This is the reason for the late entries, rather than having perished as a result of the gas leak.  For dinner, I had a bowl of soup with a greater variety of locally caught sea-dwelling creatures than I’ve ever had in a single dish.

Saying “I have about $200,000 on me,” in the average American town might get you killed.  In Chilean pesos, it’s chump change. Although I guess it could still get you mugged.  Gas is the most expensive here of any place that I’ve ever traveled, and the currency Is virtually worthless.  The exchange rate is something like 500 Chilean pesos for one American dollar.  On an unrelated note, I managed to do a little Black Friday shopping from half a world away.